In our previous article on the recent trip we gave a list of places we visited, from which you could work out how to get to Birgi. However, here is a detailed version.

Take the main road through Muğla towards Aydın – this is the Izmir road in case Aydın isn’t signed. When you reach Aydın avoid the motorway and head for Incirliova, where you will see signs for Tire and you follow them.

Be warned this route to Tire is not for the faint hearted. Shades of the Seki – Elmalı road, but even narrower with much steeper drops on either side. However, if you don’t suffer from vertigo and like adventurous driving, it is highly recommended.

Tire is another old Ottoman town which apparently has an excellent market on Tuesdays – we passed through on a Saturday and didn’t see any interesting buildings, but we were running late so didn’t look too hard.

From Tire follow the signs to Ödemiş which is the plant nursery capital of this part of Turkey. As they also seem to be big on cows, there is a nice synergy of manure and plant growing.

In Fethiye garden centres at the moment you can see loads of fruit trees and they all come from Ödemiş where clusters of young trees are heeled in along the roadsides.

Fruit trees at the village of Ödemiş, Turkey

Ödemiş has a very lively market on Saturdays which we drove by, but couldn’t find a parking space so carried on. From here it is a short hop of around 7 miles to Birgi in the foothills of the Bozdağ Mountains.

Birgi is small, population around 3,000, and has only two guest houses in one of which we stayed. However, when we go again we shall stay down the hill in Ödemiş, as Birgi also doesn’t have restaurants as we know them. Just a couple of places selling pide, soup and sulu yemek, and lots of pancake makers about which we shall wax lyrical in our next article. The lack of hotel/restaurant development in Birgi is deliberate as part of the plan to preserve the Ottoman heritage.

In Ödemiş you can try an Ödemiş pide which is really different. The filling is egg mixed with local greens and, before serving, they cover the top with finely grated sharp cheese and it is yummy – not to mention a real treat to find a pide with a different filling.

Location of Birgi, Turkey

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